What was once a saintly sanatorium now gently welcomes children and those who want the punch of an icy Margarita. But don’t despair – the spa remains a gentle, evocative cocoon, a sort of lost city among the twisting vines, with huge windows to let the jungle in, and sweet, smiling ladies in white who will put you on your own little comfort cloud. This is ayurveda territory, but you don’t have to go the whole hog. Some deep breathes in the yoga pavilion and a four-handed massage with scrumptious Africology products should be enough to send energy levels soaring. Villas facing sun-warmed sand and endless sea are a lesson in understated elegance, with thatch-roofed dining salas and pools that are more lap than plunge. Drift in from the beach and feast on veg grown in the chef’s own kitchen garden and fish from the island’s boats.