What a schlep to get here. But then this is proper coastal wilderness. Gosh, this is an expensive shack on a beach, and yet it instantly turns you into a kind of giant baby, lolling about in laziness. You really don't need clothes. And you absolutely don't need shoes. You can walk out of your villa naked, into the sea, without so much as meeting a starfish. Boy, is the diving good - these are some of the healthiest and most pristine corals you will see anywhere. And the fishing! Just 15 minutes from the beach and you're mainlining the best deep-sea fishing you can possibly imagine - wahoos, sailfish, marlin to break records. You eat what you're given: simple but tasty fish and avocados that taste like tropical cream. Vamizi is building some really rather swanky villas - watch its progress like a happy hawk.

It’s absurdly remote, so getting here involves a series of buzz about tiny planes, a wade through mandgroves and boarding a boat that pours you out like spilt milk onto a crescent shaped beach that’s like a stellar moon of stellar brilliance. This island is spectacular by any standards. Dramatic exposed coral cliffs overhang powder-puff sand that slopes gently into living gardens of anenomes. Romantic dhows tack the horizon; fishermen scoop by in dug-out canoes. Dip your mask under the surface and a rare reef fish will flash a stripe or two at you. There are nine makuti-thatch, coarl-stone villas that sit among coastal forest with views of sunsets or sunsets on opposite sides of the island. The newly revamped interiors are effortless Afro-chic with grass carpets, carved stools and lights sourced from roadside craftsmen. Days can be busy or lazy – swim, turtle spot, kayak, fish, have a massage, learn how to dive or nip across to Ibo Island to rootle around in a culture that dates back to the Arab trading routes of AD300. Dinners are a winner, a benchmark in barefoot smart – your personal butler will set up feasts on a beach surrounded by candles, or under a floodlit baobab tree. You are both looked after and left alone in all the right measures. This is an island that is intelligently green as well as adventurous and crazily delicious.